questions · answered plainly

Every Question, Patch-Tested

Ten questions we hear most often, answered the way we'd answer them at the studio bench: briefly, practically, and with a test you can run yourself.

Flat illustration of stacked swatch cards with a large emerald question mark

undertone

Compare a warm and a cool shade at the same depth on your jaw in daylight. The one that blends without looking pink or yellow points to your undertone: cool, warm, neutral or olive. If both look grey or orange, try an olive shade.

Oils and some ingredients react with air and your skin's sebum, and the film concentrates as it dries. Many formulas deepen slightly. Wait at least 15 minutes before judging a swatch, and an hour if your skin is oily.

On the face, in stripes from cheek to neck. Hands and forearms are often a different colour, though they're useful for comparing undertones side by side. See the three-stripe method on Shade 01.

Many mineral powders have short, fragrance-free ingredient lists, which can help. But some contain bismuth oxychloride, which irritates some people. There's no shortcut: patch-test first. More on Shade 02.

Only partly. SPF is tested at 2 mg/cm² under ISO 24444, far more than a normal foundation layer. Wear a dedicated sunscreen underneath and treat makeup SPF as a bonus.

Check the period-after-opening symbol, a small open jar marked with months such as 12M. Discard anything that changes smell, colour or texture sooner, whatever the label says.

Yes. Blending two neighbouring shades is a reliable way to fine-tune depth, especially as your skin changes between seasons. Mix formulas of the same type, such as two silicone-based liquids, for the smoothest result.

Long-wear or oil-free liquids and powders usually last longest. Set the T-zone lightly and blot through the day rather than adding more product.

Hydrating liquids, cream balms and tinted moisturisers tend to be more comfortable. Skip heavy matte long-wear formulas and prep with a moisturiser. See Shade 03 and Shade 04.

Apply a small amount to the same spot, such as behind the ear or on the inner forearm, once or twice a day for several days. Stop if redness, itching or swelling appears, and see a pharmacist or doctor about any persistent reaction. This site offers general information, not medical advice.

Still curious? Leave us a swatch note and we'll consider it for the next update.